Japanese maple (Acer palmatum) — the first 7 days

Most issues after shipping don’t come from a “plant problem”, but from the gap between transport (cold, heat, darkness, drying) and an immediate setup (full sun, wind, unsuitable watering). Acclimation simply means bringing the tree back into a normal rhythm, without sudden changes.

On arrival: a simple check, without rushing

Unpacking

Unpack promptly, then let the plant rest. If the rootball is well secured, there’s no need to handle the tree for a long time.

Check the overall condition

• Foliage: minor shipping marks are possible (creased leaves, slightly dull foliage).
• Branches: check that none are broken.
• Pot and rootball: check stability, no cracks, and proper drainage.

Marked leaves don’t necessarily mean a lasting problem—the important sign is new growth resuming over the following weeks.

Days 1 to 3: place the tree in the right spot

Light and wind

For the first 48–72 hours, the best setup is:

• gentle light (bright partial shade),
• shelter from wind,,
• avoid full afternoon sun.

The goal is to limit transpiration until the tree has “reset” to its normal conditions.

Temperature

In cold periods, avoid moving the tree abruptly from cold outdoors to warm indoor air. Japanese maples tolerate cool conditions well; what they dislike are sudden shocks and dry, heated indoor air.

Watering on arrival: neither too much nor too little

The right approach

Decide on the first watering by checking the rootball:

• if the mix is still moist, there’s no urgency;
• if the surface is dry, a thorough watering is appropriate.

Water thoroughly (until it runs out), then let the rootball drain. Avoid standing water in a saucer.

Days 4 to 7: transition toward the final location

Once the first days have passed, you can gradually move the tree closer to its final position:

• give it more light if the planned exposure is bright,
• while still avoiding harsh drying wind and immediate strong sun.

This transition is especially helpful for potted plants and for fine foliage types.

What to avoid during the first week

• Repotting immediately (unless there’s an obvious urgency related to the pot).
• Pruning to “correct” imbalance: the tree needs stability first.
• Heavy fertilizing.
• Full sun and wind right after unboxing.

A few reassuring reference points

• A creased or marked leaf doesn’t mean the tree is in trouble.
• The useful indicator is bud condition and regrowth over the following weeks.
• The most common post-delivery stress is drying out—hence the value of wind shelter and consistent watering.

FAQ

Should I water immediately after delivery?
Only if the rootball is dry at the surface. If the mix is still moist, there’s no urgency.

Where should I place my Japanese maple for the first days?
In gentle light, sheltered from wind, avoiding full afternoon sun for 48–72 hours.

Are damaged leaves after transport a serious issue?
No—this is often superficial. Recovery is judged by overall stability and new growth, not by a few marked leaves.

Can I repot right after delivery?
It’s generally better to wait. Acclimation comes first, unless there’s an obvious issue (broken pot, unsuitable waterlogged substrate, etc.).

Should I bring the tree indoors?
Generally, no. Heated indoor air is often too dry and can disrupt dormancy during the cold season.